Milan
Milan, Italy

Driving from France to Italy: the Riviera Road to Milan

Why a Milan trip deserves more than a stopover: the Duomo rooftop, The Last Supper, Brera, Navigli aperitivo and how long to stay.

Italy 5 landmarks Tailored by Cartier World Travel

Driving from France to Italy is one of those legs that quietly becomes the best part of a European holiday. You leave the pines and beach towns of the Côte d’Azur, climb onto a motorway pinned to the side of a mountain, and spend the next few hours alternating between tunnels bored straight through the rock and viaducts hung out over the Mediterranean. Somewhere along the way the road signs change language, the coffee gets shorter and stronger, and by late afternoon you are rolling into Milan. It is a transfer on paper. In practice it is a day of scenery you would happily pay to see.

Sam Newman drove this route on his way east through Europe, out of the Saint-Tropez side of Provence, past Monaco and on towards Milan, with the Lamborghini factory near Bologna on the itinerary after that. His verdict on the coastal stretch will resonate with anyone from Victoria.

What driving from France to Italy actually looks like

The spine of the trip is the A8 in France, which runs behind the Riviera coast from Provence past Cannes, Nice and Monaco, then crosses the border near Ventimiglia and becomes the Italian A10, the Autostrada dei Fiori. From there it hugs the Ligurian coast through Sanremo and Savona to Genoa, where you turn inland and north on the A7 across the Apennines and down onto the Lombard plain into Milan.

This is mountainous country that falls straight into the sea, so the engineering does the work the terrain will not allow. Tunnels arrive every couple of kilometres, and between them you get a few seconds of open sky, a sheer drop and a slab of blue water before the next portal swallows you. It is genuinely spectacular, and it is also demanding: constant light and dark, tight curves, trucks in the right lane and fast local traffic in the left. The driver sees less of it than the passenger, which is one good argument for sharing the wheel.

Tolls, service stops and the practical side

Both the French autoroute and the Italian autostrada are toll roads, and on the long runs you take a ticket on entry and pay at the exit. Have a credit card ready and know which lanes you can use, because the automated lanes reserved for electronic tags are easy to drift into by mistake. Sam noted that the tolls between the Riviera and Milan were expected to run to somewhere in the range of 40 to 60, and that they add up quickly when you are crossing two countries in a day. Budget for them rather than being surprised by them.

Motorway service areas on this route are a cut above what Australians expect from a highway stop. They sell proper coffee, panini and regional food, and the Italian ones stock everything from wine to scale model cars. They are also the natural place to stretch after an hour of tunnels.

Where to break the drive

You can do the run in a single day, but the coast rewards a pause. Menton on the French side is all lemon trees and pastel facades. Just over the border, the Ligurian towns of Sanremo and Bordighera have a faded, unhurried elegance. Genoa is a serious city with a tangled medieval old town, a working port and a food culture that gave the world pesto and focaccia. If you have an extra night in hand, the Portofino peninsula and the Cinque Terre sit within easy reach of the same motorway.

Arriving in Milan

Milan is Italy’s working city, and it wears that lightly. The Duomo is the obvious start, a forest of marble spires you can walk among on the roof terraces. Next to it, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is a nineteenth century shopping arcade under a glass dome that still feels grand rather than touristy. Brera keeps the artistic side of the city, the Navigli canals fill with people in the evening, and aperitivo is a genuine institution: a drink in the early evening, something to eat alongside it, and no rush about any of it. Leonardo’s Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie is worth arranging well in advance, because entry is limited and it books out.

When to go and how it fits a wider trip

Late spring and early autumn are the sweet spot for this drive. The coast is warm, the light is long, and you avoid both the August crush on the Riviera and the summer heat that settles over the Po Valley around Milan. Winter is quiet in the city and perfectly pleasant, though the coastal views are less generous.

As a piece of a larger itinerary, this leg does a lot of work. It links Provence and the French Riviera to northern Italy without a flight, and once you are in Milan you are within a short train or drive of the lakes, Turin, Verona and Venice, or south towards Emilia-Romagna and the motor valley around Bologna. The trick is pacing it properly: allowing more hours than the map suggests, choosing where to stop before you set off, and having the car, the tolls and the first night’s arrival sorted so the day feels like part of the holiday rather than a gap between two hotels. That is exactly the kind of detail we plan for travellers who would rather drive the coast than fly over it.

In his own words

What Sam said

I know we hang our hat on the Great Ocean Road, but some of the roads over the cliffs here... they are absolutely spectacular drives, and pretty hairy as well. Sam Newman, on the ground
See it for yourself

Sam Newman in Milan

Filmed on Sam's own trip through Europe, parts of which Cartier World Travel arranged.

The route

Getting there

What to see

Milan, up close

Duomo di Milano and the Terrazze (Milan Cathedral and rooftop terraces)
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Duomo di Milano and the Terrazze (Milan Cathedral and rooftop terraces)

Landmark and rooftop walk

The cathedral is the reason Milan has a skyline worth looking at, a forest of pink Candoglia marble spires that took roughly six centuries to finish. The interior is vast and dim, but the real event is the roof, where you walk among the flying buttresses and gargoyles with the Alps on the horizon on a clear day. It is one of the very few great Gothic cathedrals in Europe you are allowed to climb over. Combine it with the Museo del Duomo across the piazza if you want the original statuary up close.

Book a timed rooftop ticket online in advance and take the stairs rather than the lift for the better approach, going at opening or in the last light of the afternoon, and allow two hours for roof, nave and museum.

Il Cenacolo Vinciano at Santa Maria delle Grazie (The Last Supper)
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Il Cenacolo Vinciano at Santa Maria delle Grazie (The Last Supper)

Art and heritage

Leonardo's mural covers the end wall of the Dominican refectory where it has been slowly falling apart since the 1490s, which is exactly what makes standing in front of it feel urgent. Entry is by strictly timed slot with a small group and about fifteen minutes inside, in a climate controlled airlock of a room. It is short, so read up beforehand and use every minute on the faces and the hands. The Bramante church and cloister next door deserve twenty minutes on their own.

Tickets are released in blocks months ahead on the official ministry site and vanish fast, it is shut on Mondays, arrive twenty minutes early or you forfeit the slot, and allow an hour with the church.

Brera and the Pinacoteca di Brera
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Brera and the Pinacoteca di Brera

Neighbourhood walk and gallery

Brera is the one central quarter that still feels like a village, all cobbles, ivy, galleries and small bars behind the Duomo crowds. The Pinacoteca holds Mantegna's foreshortened Dead Christ, Piero della Francesca's Montefeltro Altarpiece and Hayez's The Kiss, and the adjoining Palazzo Citterio has extended the collection into the modern era. Afterwards the Orto Botanico di Brera hides behind the palazzo, a pocket of quiet almost nobody finds.

Go late afternoon when the tour groups have gone, book the Pinacoteca online to skip the queue, note it does not open on Mondays, and allow three hours for gallery, botanic garden and a slow wander.

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Aperitivo at Camparino in Galleria, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Food and drink

Milan invented the aperitivo hour and this bar, on the corner where the Galleria meets the cathedral square, has been pouring since the 1860s under Liberty style mosaics and wrought iron. Order a Negroni or a simple Campari and soda at the standing bar downstairs, or book the upstairs Sala Spiritello for a seated, more serious drinks list. The Galleria itself is the walk in, a glass domed arcade that functions as Milan's drawing room. It is touristy and entirely worth it.

Drop in around 6.30pm on a weekday, stand at the ground floor bar for the atmosphere and the shorter wait, book ahead if you want the upstairs room, and allow an hour.

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Cimitero Monumentale

Overlooked sight

Milan's monumental cemetery is an open air sculpture museum where the industrial dynasties of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries competed with each other in marble and bronze. There are Art Nouveau angels, a scaled down Trajan's Column, futurist tombs and Arturo Toscanini's family plot, spread over a huge grid of avenues. Almost no visitor makes the short trip north to see it, so you often have whole sections to yourself. Sombre, strange and quietly one of the best things in the city.

Pick up the free map at the entrance, go on a bright morning for the shadows on the sculpture, avoid Mondays when it does not open, and allow ninety minutes.

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