metsovo
Metsovo, Greece

Visiting Metsovo in Greece: Stone Town in the Pindus

Metsovo sits high in the Greek Pindus, stone houses, mountain cheese, wine and Zagori nearby. How to plan a Metsovo trip that earns more than an hour.

Greece 5 landmarks Tailored by Cartier World Travel

Most Australians come to Greece for the islands, which is exactly why visiting Metsovo in Greece feels like such a discovery. This is a stone town wedged into the folds of the Pindus mountains in Epirus, at an altitude where the air stays cool in August and the roofs are built to carry snow. It is not a beach, it is not a ruin, and it is not on the standard two week itinerary. It is a working mountain town that happens to be beautiful, and it sits directly on the route between north western Greece and the monasteries of Meteora, which makes it one of the easiest good decisions you can make on a Greek road trip.

Why visiting Metsovo in Greece is worth the flight time

Greece at altitude is a different country. The houses in Metsovo are built of grey stone with heavy slate roofs, stacked up the sides of a steep valley so that one household’s roofline is the next one’s front step. Lanes turn into stairways. Balconies lean out over cobbles. The central square is small, shaded and busy, ringed with tavernas and cafes, and it functions as the town’s living room rather than a set piece for visitors.

What lifts it above pretty is that people actually live here. Metsovo has long been a centre of Aromanian, or Vlach, culture, with its own dialect, music and dress, and a tradition of wealthy expatriate benefactors who sent money home to build schools, churches and museums. That history is why a town of this size has the civic buildings and the confidence that it does.

What to do once you are on foot

Wander the upper lanes

The pleasure here is vertical. Walk uphill from the square and the crowds thin out within a few minutes, leaving woodsmoke, stacked firewood, kitchen gardens and views straight down the valley. Bring shoes with grip, because the cobbles are polished and the gradients are real.

Museums and galleries

For a mountain town, Metsovo punches well above its weight culturally. The Averoff Gallery holds a serious collection of nineteenth and twentieth century Greek painting and sculpture, and a restored mansion museum shows how a prosperous Metsovite household once lived, with carved timber ceilings, low divans and heavy textiles. Both are compact enough to enjoy without turning your afternoon into a schedule.

Crafts and the local table

Woodcarving and woollen goods are the traditional trades, and you will see both in the shops around the square. On the food side, Metsovo is known across Greece for its cheese, particularly the smoked metsovone, and the region does hearty mountain cooking: pies, slow cooked meat, beans, and tsipouro to finish. There is wine made locally too, which still surprises people who assume Greek wine stops at sea level.

Getting in, parking and the shape of the streets

Be realistic about the driving. The approach roads narrow as you descend into town, the main street works as a single lane in practice, and a car stopped with its hazard lights on is treated as an ordinary part of traffic rather than an emergency. Sam found it impossible to park anywhere near the square, ended up reversing back up the hill, and noted that pedestrians walk down the middle of the road as though they were a vehicle. Tooting is common and mostly means “I am here”, not “hurry up”.

The fix is simple. Park on the outskirts where the road is still wide, or in whatever formal parking you find on the way in, and walk down. Metsovo is small and the walk is short, and you will see far more of the town on foot than you ever would through a windscreen.

When to go

Summer is the obvious win for Australians travelling in the European high season, because the altitude keeps Metsovo comfortable while the coast bakes. Autumn brings colour to the beech and fir forests and quieter tavernas. Winter is a real winter, with snow, open fires and skiing on the slopes nearby, which is when the town fills with Greek visitors rather than international ones. Spring is green, wet and beautiful in a moody way.

How Metsovo fits a wider Greek trip

Metsovo works best as part of a mainland loop rather than a standalone destination. Pair it with Ioannina and its lake, the stone villages and gorge country of Zagori to the north, and Meteora to the east, and you have a week of northern Greece that most travellers never see. Two nights here is enough to slow down properly; one night is enough to eat well, sleep in the cool and drive on with the mountain pass ahead of you. If you are also heading for the islands, this is the part of the trip that gives the rest of it contrast.

Sam’s read on the place was that it is a genuinely lovely village of down to earth locals who are now outnumbered by visitors, and that captures the balance to plan for. Go, but go with the parking sorted, the timing thought through and a route that lets Metsovo be a stop you savour rather than one you survive. That is the kind of detail we work out for travellers before they leave home.

In his own words

What Sam said

A beautiful little village inhabited by down to earth Greek citizens, and I reckon they've been outnumbered by the tourists. Sam Newman, on the ground
See it for yourself

Sam Newman in Metsovo

Filmed on Sam's own trip through Europe, parts of which Cartier World Travel arranged.

On the map

Metsovo laid out

What to see

Metsovo, up close

01

Αρχοντικό Τοσίτσα (Tositsa Mansion Museum of Folk Art)

House museum

The restored 18th century mansion of the Tositsas, one of the Vlach merchant families whose fortunes made in Egypt and Venice built modern Metsovo. You move through panelled winter rooms, carved wooden ceilings, silverwork, weapons and heavy embroidered costumes, all laid out as if the household stepped out an hour ago. It is the clearest explanation you will get of why a mountain village of shepherds has the endowments and architecture of a small city. Entry is by guided group only, which keeps it unhurried.

Groups leave on a fixed rotation and the house closes one day midweek, so confirm the day's tour times when you arrive in town and allow 45 minutes plus waiting.

02

Κατώγι Αβέρωφ (Katogi Averoff Winery)

Winery and tasting

The winery Averoff founded in the 1960s, planting Cabernet Sauvignon at an altitude everyone told him was absurd, and effectively starting modern Greek estate wine. The cellar tour walks you through the original barrel rooms and ends in a tasting of the mountain reds and the Epirus whites. Pair it with the other Metsovo obsession, the smoked Metsovone cheese, which the same family circle helped commercialise. It sits on the edge of town, walkable from the square in about ten minutes downhill.

Book the tour and tasting ahead by email or phone rather than turning up, take the last slot of the afternoon and allow 90 minutes.

03

Πινακοθήκη Ε. Αβέρωφ (E. Averoff Gallery)

Art museum

Evangelos Averoff's personal collection of 19th and 20th century Greek painting, given to his home town and housed in a purpose built stone building near the square. Lytras, Gyzis, Parthenis, Tsarouchis and Moralis all hang here, which is an absurdly good line up for a village of a few thousand people. The rooms are small, well lit and quiet, and there are usually temporary shows downstairs. Ninety minutes is enough unless you linger.

Go mid morning before the coach groups arrive from Ioannina, and ask at the desk whether a temporary exhibition is running downstairs.

Λίμνη Πηγών Αώου (Aoos Springs Lake) and the Valia Calda approach
04

Λίμνη Πηγών Αώου (Aoos Springs Lake) and the Valia Calda approach

Landscape drive and hike

Twenty minutes north of town the road drops to a high reservoir ringed by black pine and beech, the gateway to Πίνδος Εθνικός Δρυμός (Pindos National Park), better known by its Vlach name Valia Calda, the warm valley. There are lakeside tracks for an easy hour on foot, and serious marked routes for those who want a full day with a guide. Autumn is the moment, when the beech turns and the light on the water is extraordinary. Bears and wolves live here, which tells you how little developed it is.

Drive it in October for the colour, take a proper hiking guide from Metsovo if you intend to go beyond the lake shore, and allow a half day minimum.

Ιερά Μονή Αγίου Νικολάου (Holy Monastery of Saint Nicholas)
05

Ιερά Μονή Αγίου Νικολάου (Holy Monastery of Saint Nicholas)

Byzantine monastery and walk

A tiny 14th century monastery on the slope below the town, reached by a steep cobbled path through walnut trees and terraces. The katholikon interior is covered floor to ceiling in post Byzantine frescoes, dark, crowded and genuinely startling after the climb. The caretaker family lives on site and will usually unlock and show you round. Most day trippers never leave the square, so you often have it to yourself.

Walk down in the cool of the morning and allow two hours return, the climb back up is the hard part and there is no shade at midday.

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