Mykonos
Mykonos, Greece

Planning a Trip to Mykonos: Windmills and Little Venice

Plan a Mykonos trip that goes beyond the beach clubs: Chora's lanes, the windmills, Delos, quiet northern beaches and the best time to visit.

Greece 3 landmarks Tailored by Cartier World Travel

Planning a trip to Mykonos usually starts with the postcard, whitewashed cubes, blue shutters, a windmill on a rise above the water. What makes the island worth the long flight is that the postcard is genuinely there, and that there is more behind it than the party reputation suggests. Mykonos sits in the middle of the Cyclades, a short hop from Athens and an easy link in a wider Greek island run, and it works just as well for travellers who arrive by sea after an Adriatic crossing from Split as it does for those flying in.

Sam Newman filmed here on his European trip, walking down from his accommodation into the heart of town for the windmills, Little Venice and a look at the crowd. What comes across is how compact the whole scene is. The famous parts of Mykonos Town sit within a few minutes of each other.

The town of Chora, and why the lanes are like that

Mykonos Town, known as Chora, is a maze on purpose. The narrow, curving whitewashed lanes were built to confuse raiders and to break the force of the wind, and they still do both. Cars are kept out of the centre, so the only way to see it is on foot, and the only sensible approach is to accept that you will get lost for a while.

The blue and green shutters, the painted steps, the bougainvillea against the lime wash, it is all repeated endlessly and it is still lovely. The town’s most photographed church, Panagia Paraportiani, sits near the water at the edge of the old quarter, a cluster of chapels merged into one strange white shape. Small churches turn up everywhere else too, tucked between houses and out along the roads.

The windmills at Kato Mili

The row of round stone windmills on the rise above the harbour is the island’s signature, and it was working infrastructure long before it was a photo stop. Mykonos was a milling and shipping island, and the mills ground grain that moved on through the Aegean. The sails and much of the timber machinery are long gone from most of them, which is why they look like sturdy white drums with caps rather than the working mills of a painting.

They are worth the short uphill walk for the outlook as much as the mills themselves. From up there you see the whole curve of the town, the boats, and on many days a cruise ship or two anchored offshore.

Little Venice

Immediately below the windmills is Little Venice, a line of old merchants’ houses built hard against the sea with balconies hanging directly over the water. The name explains itself the moment you see it. The front yards are the Aegean. Sit at one of the waterfront tables at the right moment and the swell will reach you, which is part of the appeal and part of the risk.

Beaches, boats and the rest of the island

Beyond the town, Mykonos is a ring of bays. Some are sheltered and family quiet, some are organised with loungers and music, and a few are known well beyond Greece for their beach clubs. The island is small enough that you can sample more than one in a day, and a hire car, scooter or the local bus network will get you to most of them.

The other essential day trip is Delos, the ancient sanctuary island a short boat ride from Mykonos Town. It is one of the most significant archaeological sites in the Aegean, uninhabited now, and a complete change of pace from Chora.

The crowds, and how to work around them

Mykonos gets busy, and the rhythm of the day is worth understanding before you book. Cruise ships and day boats deliver large numbers into the same small grid of lanes, so the middle of the day in Chora is the most congested part of the island. Early morning is calm and the light on the white walls is at its best. Late afternoon into sunset belongs to Little Venice and the windmills, which is the busiest and also the most rewarding hour there.

Staying outside the immediate centre, with the town a walk or a short drive away, gives you the option of quiet when you want it. Self-catering suits the island well, since the walk home after a long dinner is a great deal simpler than a drive.

When to go, and how Mykonos fits a wider trip

Late spring and early autumn are the sweet spot. May and June bring warm water, long days and a town that is open but not yet at full pitch, while September and into October hold the heat with far fewer people. July and August are the peak in every sense, hottest, busiest and loudest, and the meltemi wind can blow hard enough to affect small boat trips. Deep winter is a different island again, with much of the tourist trade closed.

For Australians, Mykonos rarely justifies a trip on its own, and it is not meant to. It slots neatly into a Greek itinerary with Athens and another island or two of a different character, and it pairs naturally with a longer run through Italy and the Adriatic, or with a northern leg on to Thessaloniki and mainland Greece. Getting that sequence right, the ferry timings, which island first, where to stay so the town is close without being on top of you, is the difference between a hurried stop and a few days you remember. That is the sort of detail we enjoy working through with travellers from our base in Ballan, shaping an itinerary around the pace you actually want to travel at.

In his own words

What Sam said

We'll just have a look at how the beautiful people act here, on one of the many islands of Greek territory. Sam Newman, on the ground
See it for yourself

Sam Newman in Mykonos

Filmed on Sam's own trip through Europe, parts of which Cartier World Travel arranged.

On the map

Mykonos laid out

What to see

Mykonos, up close

Archaeological Site of Dilos (Delos)
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Archaeological Site of Dilos (Delos)

Ancient site and island day trip

An entire uninhabited island that was once the sacred birthplace of Apollo and the busiest port in the Aegean, now a UNESCO listed field of temples, mosaics and marble lions. You walk the House of Dionysos, the Terrace of the Lions and up Mount Kynthos for a view over the Cyclades. Nothing else in the islands comes close for scale or atmosphere, and it is a 30 minute boat ride from Mykonos Town. Most people treat Mykonos as a beach club and never see it, which is the mistake.

Boats leave from the Old Port and the site does not open every day of the week, so confirm the current closed day and sail on the first departure before the heat; book a licensed guide in advance and allow four to five hours door to door, with a hat, water and proper shoes since there is almost no shade.

Chora: Kastro, Panagia Paraportiani, Mikri Venetia (Little Venice) and Kato Mili (the windmills)
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Chora: Kastro, Panagia Paraportiani, Mikri Venetia (Little Venice) and Kato Mili (the windmills)

Town walk

The old town is a deliberate maze of whitewashed lanes built to confuse pirates, and it still works on day trippers. Start in the Kastro quarter at the much photographed Panagia Paraportiani church, drift along the Mikri Venetia waterfront where houses hang over the sea, then climb to the row of 16th century windmills at Kato Mili. Do it on foot, because cars are banned in the centre and every turn opens onto bougainvillea, a chapel or a sudden slot of blue.

Walk it between roughly 7am and 9am when the lanes are empty and the light is best, allow about two hours, then come back for a sunset drink on the Mikri Venetia terraces and expect to queue or book a table for the good ones.

Kiki's Tavern, Agios Sostis
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Kiki's Tavern, Agios Sostis

Lunch

A no electricity, no sign, no telephone taverna above a quiet north coast beach, cooking on a wood grill with a salad table and a jug of house wine. It is the island's best loved lunch and it has stayed stubbornly simple while everything around it went VIP. You eat under a vine canopy with the Aegean below and it costs a fraction of the beach clubs. It is seasonal, so it is not a winter plan.

No reservations at all, so arrive before noon or after 3pm, bring cash, and plan on a two to three hour lunch with a swim at Agios Sostis either side; the walk down from the roadside car park is short but steep.

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